These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.

Kežmarok

A change of pace

By Spectator Staff

	photo: The Slovak Spectator archives

Kežmarok is most worthy of a visit for its two churches (open Tuesday and Friday, from 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-16:00). The first has a towering red steeple reminiscent of a mosque in the New Evangelical Church, designed by an Austro-Hungarian architect to be built in the Orient. He donated his plans to Kežmarok instead.

The Evangelical Wooden Church next door is encased in a white plaster shell with round glass portholes. Its ship-like architecture is sometimes attributed to Swedish and Danish sailors who are said to have helped construct it. Inside, the church is like a Baroque jewel box, carved from wood and scented like a cedar closet. Four massive pillars of yew support the roof which once sheltered 1,500 people. The roof is a continuous mural, painted sky blue with billowy white clouds and pink angels. Biblical scenes cover supporting arches.

The origin of the town name most likely comes from the German Käsmark, which means "cheese market." For centuries, Kežmarok was locked in a fierce rivalry with Levoča - disputes between the two towns over land and control of Hungarian-Polish trade routes often broke out into bloody battles.

Ironically, Kežmarok Castle, across town from the churches, offered townspeople little solace. In fact, the castle also became a threat. Imrich Zápoľský, the head of the Spiš region, constructed fortifications facing town with a moat. Meanwhile, he sought control of the free royal town. The Zápoľský family and future castle rulers, the Thökölys, warred for generations with resistant citizens. Rebels stormed the castle, and were beaten back in the late 16th century.

Three generations later, Imrich Thököly lead a massive revolt of the Hungarian and Transylvanian nobility against the Habsburgs. He contracted an alliance with the Ottoman Empire and saw initial success; in 1682 he was crowned king of the central Hungarian kingdom. But after Turkish troops were defeated outside Vienna the next year, his power gradually eroded until he fled to Turkey, where he died in 1705. His body was returned to Kežmarok in 1906 and deposited in a mausoleum beside the New Evangelical Church.

More stories and artefacts await in the Castle Museum (Múzeum v Kežmarku, Hradné nám. 42, open Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00, with tours on the hour). For more on Kežmarok, head a few kilometres down the road toward Spišská Bela to Strážky Renaissance Manor (Kaštieľ Strážky, Mednyánsky ul. 25, 059 01 Strážky) surrounded by an English park. Besides a precious library, there are paintings by local artist Ladislav Mednyánsky and a valuable coat of arms from Beckov Castle in western Slovakia.

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