These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.

Gemer

Mysteries above and below

By Matthew Evans

The eastern reaches of Slovakia's southern lowlands make room for more palaces above ground, while the Slovenský kras (Slovak Karst) draws visitors far below. The Hungarian and Slovak mix, as elsewhere in the south, adds to the region's exotic air.

Rožňava, just one hour from Košice, serves as a convenient base for exploring this cultural melting pot. Each road out of town leads to one of the main attractions, which include Betliar Chateau, Krásna Hôrka Castle, and three engrossing caves.

The old mining town of Rožňava itself has a colourful history. Legend has it that a rugged outdoorsman first discovered the area while hiking through the Slovenské Rudohorie Hills. He lay down for a rest, fell asleep and dreamt of gold. When he awoke, he began digging until he struck it rich. He then placed three roses on the ground to mark the area, giving Rožňava (Roses) its name.

The town's 17th century watchtower on the main square was once said to have the most accurate time in the land, inspiring locals to travel from miles away to synchronise their watches. Directly in front of the watchtower is a chalky white statuette featuring Františka Andrássy, erected in 1905 as a monument to her efforts in helping the poor.

Unfortunately, Rožňava's historical beauty fades beyond the central core, as concrete prefab housing blocks take over. But a few kilometres beyond the town in any direction is where the real fun begins.

	Krásna Hôrka
	photo: Ján Svrček

Krásna Hôrka: palace above

Krásna Hôrka, five kilometres east, is a fully reconstructed and beautifully maintained fortress. The Mariassy family built it in the early 13th century high on a limestone hill above the village of Krásnohorské Podhradie, at a cross-roads between the northern Spiš region and Košice. The castle changed hands repeatedly over the years until the Andrássys took over in the 16th century.

The Hungarian House of Andrássy originated in Transylvania and settled here after Peter, a member of the family, become a captain. By the 19th century they were firmly atop the social heap, among the largest traders of iron ore and related products in central Europe. Július Andrássy was Prime Minister of Hungary between 1867-71, and the dynasty lasted well into the 20th century. The Prime Minister's son, also named Július, was the last Austro-Hungarian Minister of Foreign Affairs (1918). When the Communists took power in 1948, the remaining family fled to Liechtenstein. The main character in the film The English Patient, incidentally, was also an Andrássy.

The one-hour castle tour goes through 31 rooms, highlighted by the former counterfeit money and metal workshop houses, fearsome battle axes, intricate metal hinges and spikes to throw on the ground to thwart advancing enemy cavalry. Nearby, in the Gothic Palace, 17th century war drums and cannons rest one floor beneath the 'beating and cutting weapons' display and the chilling torture chamber. The north-west tower houses Františka Andrássy's personal belongings.

The tour reaches an eerie climax in the magnificent chapel. There, beneath the arched and frescoed ceiling, lie the mummified remains of Žofia Seredy behind a glass sarcophagus. Dressed in black lace and wearing a ghastly grimace on her pasty white face, Seredy's hand is frozen in mid-air, as if to summon a lover.

One legend claims that she died of humiliation after discovering her husband's affair with the White Lady of Levoča. When her children plotted to murder their father in retaliation, the corpse raised its hand in protest. The official story, however, is that both hands were propped up by a bible placed on her chest during burial and petrified in that position. Her left hand was accidentally broken and the bible removed when she was transported here from the village church.

Betliar Chateau, just a few kilometres from Rožňava, was the family hunting lodge. Some lodge it was: 42 rooms, including 21 bedrooms, three dining rooms, a billiard room and a huge library. The Buddha figure sitting out front in the English garden offers the first glimpse at the Andrássy family's fascination with the exotic. Plenty of other examples await inside: the replica cave with stuffed bears and other wild animals, a room full of samurai warriors, Chinese, Turkish, and African warrior outfits, an elephant tusk and even a 4,000 year-old Egyptian mummy from the Giza pyramid.

Domica: No borders

Perhaps nowhere does the political border between Slovakia and Hungary seem more arbitrary than under 100 metres of clammy rock at Jaskyňa Domica. The better part of this massive cave, known as Baradla to Hungarians, snakes below Aggtelek National Park in north-eastern Hungary. But don't bother bringing your passport - tours from Slovakia and Hungary are not integrated.

From Rožňava, take the only road south, 33 kilometres toward Hungary and look for signs that point to Domica. The entrance is a large white building stuffed into the side of a hill with the word 'Domica' carved into the entrance archway.

Inside you'll be treated to a vast array of rust-coloured stalactites and stalagmites formed by centuries of slow-drip limestone and basalt. The highlights of the tour are brought to you courtesy of imaginative tour-guides. Midway through the longer of the two tours, the guide leads you to the underground River Styx, unchains a small boat and ushers you into it.

The small engine quietly putters you through 140 metres of a shallow, stagnant pool, offering fantastic views of the high arching crevasse. Another highlight is the aptly named Lap of Mother Earth, a narrow passage bearing a remarkable resemblance to the female sexual organ. Finally, towards the end of the tour, the guide turns off the lights so patrons can experience the eerie blackness of the cave in its natural state.

The cavern sprawls for 25 kilometres underground, making it one of the largest in Europe. The shorter 780 metre tour lasts 45 minutes and costs 50 crowns for adults, 30 crowns for children. We recommend the longer 1,560 metre tour with the boat trip, which lasts 85 minutes and costs 90 crowns for adults, 60 crowns for children. Tours in English cost an extra 40 crowns while a photo pass is 100 crowns.

Tours, June - September begin at 9:00, 10:30, 12:30, 14:00, 15:00, and 16:00. September - December and February - May, tours begin at 9:00, 11:00, 12:30, and 14:00. The cave is closed in January.

-with Daniel J. Stoll

See also:

• Gemer travel tips (Spectacular Slovakia 2001)

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