These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.

Spišský Hrad

Central Europe's largest ruin

By Chris Togneri

	Spišský hrad
	photo: Ján Svrček

Perhaps the single most photogenic and astounding site in Slovakia, the ruin of Spišský hrad (Spiš castle) is truly a must see. "The largest castle in central Europe," according to the Beliana Slovakia and the Slovaks encyclopaedia, it stands stoically aloft a rock outcropping above the town of Spišské Podhradie, overtly visible for miles around.

First constructed in the 12th century, the mighty castle quickly became a political, administrative, economic and cultural centre of the Spiš region. It was originally a Romanesque stone castle with fortifications, and over the ensuing centuries was expanded into a massive fortification. In the second half of the 13th century, a two-storey palace and three-nave basilica were built. Between 1320 and 1331 and 1370 and 1380, further construction doubled the castle's size.

In the 15th century, a massive reconstruction effort, which included the building of a Gothic Chapel in 1470, heightened the walls and further increased its scope. But in 1780, the castle met its match in a group of drunken soldiers who set fire to the tables, sparking a huge blaze. The owners of the castle moved out and Spišský hrad fell into ruin.

In the 1970s, the castle was largely reconstructed and restored, saving the remaining walls from completely crumbling into history. In 1993, Spišský hrad was added to the Unesco World Heritage List.

	photo: Ján Svrček

Today, the ruin is open daily from May 1 to October 31, from 8:30 till 18:00 (last entry is at 17:15). Although a major tourist attraction for visitors from around the world, there are fees for neither parking nor entry.

Once on the hallowed ground, check out the museum in the lower section of the ruin displaying weapons, armour, torture instruments, and a replica of the castle in its heyday. Then head for the tower, climbing stairwells so narrow that only one person can pass at a time. From the top, you'll be treated to one of the best panoramic sites in the country of green and yellow fields stretching into the distant rolling hills. From here, visitors can also see the closed northern section of the castle which is being restored after a lightning strike weakened it in 2000.

Facilities within the ruin itself offer snacks and refreshments, post-cards, souvenirs, and even a currency-exchange window. From the parking lot below, courageous tourists can go paragliding for 400 crowns.

	photo: Ján Svrček

Nearby the castle on the Gotická cesta (Gothic Road) is the top-heavy Holy Spirit Church above the village of Žehra. A disproportionately large wooden onion dome crowns this 13th century chalk-white gem. Medieval wall murals depicting various biblical stories frame a lofty early-Baroque wooden altar inside.

After you've made the rounds and worked up an appetite, head for Spišský salaš, on a hill just west of the castle. There in a beautiful wooden cabin, you can partake of some of the best traditional Slovak cuisine in the country.

-with Matthew Evans

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