These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.

Banská Bystrica

Heart of the nation

By Matthew Evans

	photo: The Slovak Spectator archives

Banská Bystrica is at the core of Slovak culture, forever ingrained in the country's history for its role in one of the most significant historical events of the Slovak nation: the Slovak National Uprising (SNP) of World War II.

Beginning August 29, 1944, the uprising was an armed resistance to the fascist wartime government of Slovakia, which was allied with Nazi Germany. For two months, the rebellion valiantly chipped away at German resources, until 50,000 Nazi troops stormed through central Slovakia in late October to quash the uprising.

The SNP Museum (Kapitulská 23) provides all the details of the struggle, housed in a monstrous white oval split in two, which is supposed to resemble a klobúk, a traditional Slovak cap worn by folk characters such as Jánošík. Between the two halves of the building is a ceremonial hall with the symbolic grave of an unknown soldier. Out front sit German, Russian and Czechoslovak tanks and heavy artillery used in the battles. The Czechoslovak and Russian gun barrels point triumphantly skyward, while those of their German counterparts point dejectedly into the dirt.

Besides history, the reason to visit Banská Bystrica is its SNP Square. Every major town in the country has one, but Banská Bystrica's is the grandest. The charming red and beige spire, to the right just before the main square, is the Church of the Virgin Mary. Built in 1255, it is the oldest building in town and was surrounded by 15th century castle walls until 1948, when the walls were demolished to make room for a post office. The Altar of St. Barbara, in the north-west chapel, is an exquisite wood carving by Master Paul of Levoča from 1509.

The other onion dome, the Church of the Holy Cross, was once attached to the castle wall. Still built into what's left of the wall across the way is Matthias House, the former seat of the Royal Administrator for King Matthias Corvinus of Hungary. Part of the Miner's Bastion since 1479, it sports a balcony straight out of Romeo and Juliet. The gateway in the remaining castle wall leads to a picturesque cemetery.

At the top of SNP Square, a red stone walkway sprawls before you. Pastel facades of 400-year-old houses glimmer, while the cobblestone street bustles with activity. The 17th century Church of St. Francis Xavier, on your left, dominates the square. Visitors can scale the 16th century Town Clock Tower, between April and October from 10:00 to 17:00, for impressive views of the surroundings.

Two buildings on the square stand out. The white building on the left, with the oval upper windows and design painted on the facade is Thurzo House (SNP námestie 4). From 1492 to 1540, this was the administrative office of the Thurzo-Fugger Company, a copper company which became one of the largest in the world at the turn of the 16th century. Today this building houses the Central Slovak Museum. Just across the square at no. 16, Benický dom (Venetian House) has a second-story arcade opening onto the square.

Between these two famous buildings stands a black obelisk, with gold Russian and Slovak lettering, commemorating the "liberation" of the city by the Russians in 1945. The rather peculiar fountain at the centre of the square is brightly lit on summer nights - the best time to stroll the picturesque square of one Slovakia's most significant cities.

See also:

• Banská Bystrica travel tips (Spectacular Slovakia 2001)

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