The wider Danube region beyond Bratislava has a variety of places worth visiting, some of them old and some of them quite new. Perhaps most notable among the newcomers is the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, near the village of Čunovo.
The right bank
Built in a stunning position, on a slim peninsula which juts out into the river from the south bank, the museum was opened in 2000. As well as a light-filled gallery displaying contemporary art, its ample gardens are used to exhibit modern sculpture. Walking around the park, with the river - here at its widest extent - all around is as close to setting sail as you will get without boarding a boat.
But if that's what you fancy, the nearby Čunovo rafting centre is a good place to start. It's a world-class facility, with a series of white-water courses. Novice kayakers are trained on flat water before being unleashed on the channels, which can be adjusted for different levels of difficulty. The advantage for learners is that unlike rafting in the wild, there are no hidden rocks or obstacles - and changing rooms, and even a hotel, are nearby. All the gear you need can be hired at the centre.
Next to the road between the museum and the rafting centre is a grey stone memorial to the five crewmembers of a British Royal Air Force Wellington bomber shot down over the river in October 1944. It was unveiled in 2003, 59 years to the day after their deaths.
The remains of the Roman miltary camp of Gerulata, in the modern-day village of Rusovce.
Photos by James Thomson
Between Čunovo and Bratislava is Rusovce, the site of an ancient military camp which once formed part of the Limes Romanus, the Romans' transcontinental defensive line (see also 'Holding the line', in the section on Nitra Region). The camp, known by the Romans as Gerulata, housed 112 cavalrymen and has been partly excavated. The remains are open to the public from April to October, and the adjoining visitor centre contains some of the artefacts found during the dig, including collections of unusual painted stonework and rare coins.
Danubiana Meulensten Art Museum
Bratislavské vodné dielo – Čunovo
Tel: +421 (0)2 6252-8501
Open May-Sep: Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00
Oct-Apr 10:00-18:00
Ticket price: €€4
Čunovo – vodný areál
(Čunovo – rafting areal)
Hraničiarska 68/120
Mob: +421(0)903 727-733
Open May-Oct: Tue,Thu, 16:30-19:30
Sat 09:30-19:00, Sun 09:30-15:00
Bookings necessary
www.raftovanie.sk
Rusovce
Population: 2,422
Nearest urban centre: Bratislava (13km)
www.rusovce.sk
Antická Gerulata Rusovce
(Military Camp Site Gerulata in Rusovce)
Gerulatská 69
Tel: +421 (0)2 6285-9332
Open Apr-Oct: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00
Ticket price: € 2.30