These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.


Nitra

Deep Slovak roots

By Matthew Evans

    
 
 photo: Ján Svrček

Today the fourth largest city in the country (87,350), Nitra was also the site where the Slovak nation first sunk its roots. In the late 7th century, small Slavic tribes banded together and settled the region, which by the early 9th century became the greater Nitra Principality enveloping most of present-day western Slovakia.

Pribina, the Prince of Nitra, became the first Slavic ruler on Slovak territory in recorded history. Although a pagan at the time, he had the first Christian church consecrated here in 828. Why he built the church is debatable: some scholars argue that it was a gift for his religious wife and her entourage from southern Germany; others believe the church was for a colony of foreign merchants in Nitra.

Although conquered in 833 by Mojmír I during the formation of the Great Moravian Empire, Nitra continued to be an administrative and religious centre throughout the Moravian and Hungarian Empires. Today, the city is home to Agricultural and Pedagogical Universities, the Agrocomplex convention centre, the Nitra Winery and the Corgoň Brewery.

Štefánikova trieda in the town centre is a charming pedestrian shopping zone, spilling out onto Svätoplukovo námestie with its central fountain and gargantuan Andrej Bagar Theatre. From here the castle comes into full view, resting atop a hill in the middle of the city. Before heading up, don't miss the twin-towered Baroque Piarist church and monastery presiding over Cyrilmetodské námestie, the pinnacle-spired St. Cyril, and the Jewish synagogue on Pri synagóge ulica.

On to the castle. Passing through the archway from Župné námestie, the higher you go, the further back in time you travel. To the right, a heroic bronze statue of Pribina welcomes you to Pribinovo námestie, a sloping granite square flanked with seminary and church buildings. Next to the palatial pink Greater Seminary, Corgoň (the Atlantean pictured on his namesake beer labels) steadies the corner of the House of Bishop Kluch.

Inside the Greater Seminary, 60,000 books line carved oak shelves stretching to the ceiling in the neo-classical diocesan library, an exact copy of the Szécsenyi National Library in Budapest. The oldest book is from 1475, while most of the tomes date back to the 16th century.

From the seminary, follow the steep walkway up past the Plague Column, across a bridge and through a series of archways to the castle, which is still the seat of the Bishop of Nitra. Three combined churches form the bishop's cathedral at the heart of the castle: the apse of the 13th century St. Emeram basilica, the Lower cathedral extension (1622-1642), and the Upper Gothic Cathedral (1333-1335), which with its stunning frescoes and ornate choir loft is the tour's highlight.

The hills around Nitra also allow visitors to dig into the city's past. From the castle, walk up through residential streets (or take bus number 10 to the end station) to the base of Zobor mountain. Hike up to the 588-metre peak to explore the castle ruins at the top, or search for the ruins of the oldest monastery in Slovakia.

The tiny 12th century church of Saint Michael the Archangel, on a treeless hill above Dražovce village, offers another charming glimpse into the past. Legend has it that St. Štefan, believing the hill was a holy place, summoned his faithful to build a church on the site. After much toil, blood trickled from the stone hill, confirming that this was indeed hallowed ground. Through the years, many stories of Virgin Mary appearances established this as a pilgrimage destination. A special mass every September 29 honours Saint Michael on his name day.

-with Chris Togneri

These articles and related information were published in Spectacular Slovakia 2001.


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