These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.


Trenčín

Awe-inspiring castle

By Chris Togneri

I have visited Trenčín (my favourite Slovak city) several times since, and have yet to become bored by that amazing castle, nor failed to wax poetical while beholding its grandeur. First erected in 1111, it was later ambitiously expanded to become a key stronghold in the line of defence against 16th and 17th century Turkish invasions. But like nearly all other Slovak castles, it burned down (in 1790) and fell to ruin.

Since 1948, though, massive reconstruction has restored the monumental castle to glory. A hike to the top, along a steep foot path which takes approximately 10 minutes to climb, rewards those in search of an incredible view. Guided tours of the castle (lasting about 45 minutes, and which can be had in English and German upon request) take place on the hour and end in the giant tower, the highest point of a very high castle. The view reveals the restored Trenčín Old Town below, the Váh River sliding lazily by the city, and the sprawling farmlands to the west of town.

Besides the walls of stalwart build, Trenčín castle is surrounded also by a rich mythology. For example, the courtyard of the castle contains a 'well of love' which according to legend was built by a certain Omar, whose beloved Fatima had been taken captive by Štefan Zapoľa, the cruel lord of the castle.

"I will give you silver, gold, jewellery, precious Persian carpets...anything you desire," pleaded Omar. "Only set my Fatima free!" "Everything you offer, we already have," sneered Zapoľa. "What does Your Highness not possess?" begged Omar. "Water. Ordinary water," came the reply.

Omar and his Turkish cohorts immediately set to work, hewing at the rock. After three long years they finally struck water about 80 metres down. Zapoľa was delighted, for the discovery meant that his castle could now withstand even the longest sieges, and Fatima was thus set free to rejoin her lover.

Omar's well of love has stood in the courtyard of Trenčín castle for five centuries since, a silent testimony to the (possible) truth of this story. Year round, couples in love still come hand in hand to toss a coin down the 80 metre deep well for luck, and to pay homage to the legend of Omar and Fatima's enduring affection.

The massive rock promontory the castle sits upon is also significant. Here, near the regal Hotel Tatra, a carving in the rock is the oldest written evidence of Roman troops on Slovak territory, dating back to 179 AD. It is also the most northern confirmation of the Roman soldiers to be found in central Europe.

Heading into the city centre, the plaque column in the middle of the Old Town square deserves mention. The column was raised by Duke Mikuláš Ilešházy in 1712 in memory of the victims of a plague epidemic which ravaged the city in 1710. Visitors can then pass behind the town walls through the Lower Gate, also known as the Turkish Gate, which features a clock tower from the 15th century. The large synagogue building is at present used for various art exhibitions.

One of the more interesting sources of spouting water the country has to offer is the fountain on Štúrovo námestie. Another curiosity is Trenčín's annual Kukanova desina, a public beer march held each spring which counts Slovak Foreign Affairs Minister Eduard Kukan as a regular participant. The rules are simple: walk from pub to pub (10 in all), drinking a pint at each stop.

Architecturally speaking, the Trenčín centre is home to a mixture of beautifully restored older structures and a smattering of modern glass and steel constructions - a combination which is at times awkward, a far cry from the prevailing aesthetically pleasurable feel of the city. But the locals are extremely hospitable and friendly, the service is helpful and prompt, the atmosphere is easy-going, Mierove námestie is clean and handsome, and the night-life is surprisingly vibrant for a city of just 60,000 inhabitants. And, of course, the ever-present castle standing guard over the city makes Trenčín a city unlike any other.

-with Ľubica Sokolíková

These articles and related information were published in Spectacular Slovakia 2001.


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