These articles were published in the Spectacular Slovakia travel guide, published annually by The Slovak Spectator since 1996. The latest editions can be obtained from our online shop.

Bratislava: Slovakia’s glittering capital and international gateway

By Howard Swains

	Bratislava Castle and the wondrous Old Town, a match for any city in Europe.
	Courtesy of Bratislava City

In certain respects, Bratislava is not like anywhere else in Slovakia, but there is no good reason why it should be. It is, instead, a typical capital city, with all the trappings that define such a place. It is the biggest city in the country and has the largest population. It is the most prosperous and the most expensive. It has the largest university and the highest proportion of graduates. There are more high-powered jobs and an average wage to reflect it.

Moreover, Bratislava welcomes more tourists than any other city, and it has the best amenities to amuse them.

And yet, even so, to say Bratislava does not feel like Slovakia is wide of the mark in terms of both its ambiance and character. A foreign visitor to the city will not forget where they are. Bratislava is rightly proud of its ancient heritage, celebrating and showcasing its medieval past, proudly displaying its historical influences and the elements that combined to make it such a powerful city. At the same time, Bratislava's residents have pulled through the same difficult periods as elsewhere in Slovakia, and the city continues to address familiar deficiencies as best it can.

Similarly, for every bar geared specifically to rowdy British stags, there are ten for their Slovak equivalent. And while it's easy to find swanky bistros serving haute cuisine to visiting diplomats, no one need look too far for bryndzové halušky either. It is the administrative and cultural centre of the country, but the traditions of Slovakia are alive, well and keenly observed. The residents, meanwhile, are no less welcoming, nor endearingly quirky, than anywhere else.

In short, Bratislava might be Slovakia's most western city – in more ways than one – but it is the bridge or the gateway to the riches of the country to its east, rather than an impenetrable barrier or a rude intruder from elsewhere.

Where am I?

Bratislava is in the south-west corner of Slovakia, sitting on both banks of the Danube and close to the Morava river, separating Slovakia from Hungary and Austria, respectively. It is the only European capital that borders two other countries, and Vienna is less than 60km away, making the cities two of the closest capitals in the world.

Formerly known as Pressburg, Bratislava was officially re-named in 1919 after the establishment of Czechoslovakia. Although it had always been a major city in the former Austro-Hungarian empire, substituting for the coronations of several rulers when Hungary was overrun by Ottomans, Bratislava underwent a major population and development boom in the 20th century, making it the only obvious choice as a capital for the new Slovak Republic after the Velvet Revolution in 1989.

Its tight old town, huddled beneath the castle on the banks of the Danube, is characterised by Baroque palaces and condensed, narrow, medieval streets. But as the 20th century progressed, it suddenly became ringed by modern developments in all directions, including over the river, where the suburb of Petržalka, for example, would be one of the five largest cities in Slovakia in its own right if separated from Bratislava. These days, the vast majority of the city's 426,000 population is housed in the ugly urban sprawl of the new city, dominated by the kind of tower blocks familiar across the former Eastern bloc.

Unfortunately, the communist government also left its scars on the city's historical core, carving a highway through the former Jewish quarter and building the "New Bridge" (Nový most) to carry it. Sometimes referred to as the UFO bridge, after the peculiar bubble-cum-pod-shaped restaurant hovering at its highest point, the bridge appears to be a misguided glimpse into a communist-imagined space-age that has gradually become accepted as an eccentric landmark.

Bratislava's location has meant a consistently diverse indigenous and transient population, historically supporting German, Hungarian and now Slovak majorities, alongside minority groups of Jews and Roma, both of which have suffered all-too-familiar persecutions throughout the years. But the city has always been the most progressive in Slovakia, and contemporary visitors will find a well-equipped and dynamic city, perfect for a short break, but with strength in depth sufficient to support an even longer stay.

A walk around the Old Town

	Sights in Slovakia range from the opulent Slovak National Theatre building in Bratislava (above) to castle ruins like Starý hrad (opposite).
	Photo Jana Liptáková

Most tour parties meet in front of one of Bratislava's most recognisable, and immediately charming buildings: the historical theatre (map D7), which stands at the end of the pedestrianised avenue comprising the parallel Jesenského and Gorkého streets (Hviezdoslavovo Square). A narrow water channel and bench-lined park separates the two thoroughfares, lined on one side by some of the city's best restaurants, and on the other by the US embassy, these days unceremoniously caged against potential terrorist attack.

The theatre itself, a wonderful Neo-Renaissance building displaying the busts of famous playwrights and composers above its first-floor balcony, casts an ornate shadow over evidence of Bratislava's unique modern dichotomy: the juggling of the treasures of the past with the mores of 21st century capitalism. So it is that a cherub-decked fountain sits alongside a McDonald’s fast food outlet, while the ancient reduta building houses the recitals of the Slovak Philharmonic (map D8) and the roulette wheels of a casino. Meanwhile, the extravagant 19th century Inn at the Three Green Trees is now operated by the Radisson SAS group as the Hotel Carlton.

	Čumil peers from his manhole and poses for a photograph.
	Howard Swains

Similarly vulnerable to attack is the Schöne Náci (map D7), another of the Staré mesto's iconic statues, this time merrily doffing his top hat on the corner of the main square, a few paces further along Rybárska brána. This statue commemorates one of Bratislava's noted eccentrics, an old man named Ignác Lamár, who used to wander the streets in a world of his own imaginings, reportedly never having recovered from the death of a girlfriend in the concentration camps of World War II. He died in 1967 and was cast for eternity in metal. However, he recently proved all too attractive to a rampaging party of British stags, who pushed him over and snapped off his arm, claiming his hat as a trophy. He has since been repaired and returned and, at the time of writing at least, remains firmly rooted to the spot.

The Hlavné námestie (map D7 and D6), formerly Bratislava's main marketplace, is still a hugely magnetic centre-point to the old city, where all the expected fittings are reliably in place. There are paving slabs and cobbles, a fountain and decorative column, and pastel-shaded palaces on all four sides.

The old town hall and a Roman Catholic church jostle with bars and cafes whose tables and umbrellas spill onto the square. Meanwhile a ubiquitous throng of dawdling tourists obstructs the path of frustrated locals striding purposefully from one side to the other. It becomes no less busy in winter, when a month-long Christmas market is assembled here. Stalls selling hot wine, hearty fare and souvenir trinkets surround a massive Christmas tree. There may even be a song or two.

In one quick glance, the architecturally educated can spot Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Classical and Art Nouveau styles around the square, many of which are all in the old town hall on the eastern side, which has been reconstructed on multiple occasions. Its Gothic gables, surrounded by variegated tiling, adds both texture and a further splattering of colour to the charming panorama. The town hall (map D6) also marks moments in history when Bratislava has come under threat from both human and natural marauders: a cannon-ball from a Napoleonic invasion is still lodged in the tower, while a tablet marks the height reached by the Danube during a flood in 1850.

The arches, arcades and balustrades of its inner courtyard, lit at night by wrought iron lanterns, are evocative of the poets and swains of romantic literature. But the ominously-named Museum of Medieval Justice, housed within, recalls a similar period, and the fact that the serfs were as likely to find themselves impaled on a big spike as they were to be wooing a maiden on a balcony.

Formerly the residences of Bratislava's wealthiest merchants, some of the palaces on the square's edges now house a number of foreign embassies – French and Japanese, among others. The central Maximillian fountain, commonly known as Roland's fountain after the statue of the mythical medieval warrior, attracts the sober and drunk alike: the former to admire its beauty, the latter occasionally to bathe naked, much to the understandable distaste of many Bratislavans.

Surveying all this, while leaning on the back of a bench outside the French embassy, is yet another statue, this time depicting a Napoleonic soldier, known as Hubert, in the familiar garb. Bonaparte himself is often rumoured to have once visited the city with an unknown girlfriend, and the statue is frequently mistaken for le petit corporal. But like the tale itself, the statue is too tall to be the emperor, and the more convincing story has Hubert, a middling general, falling in love with a Slovak girl and retiring to Slovakia to make wine – and sweet love, no doubt.

	The Primate’s Palace in one of Bratislava’s numerous town squares.
	Courtesy of Bratislava City

In addition to its attractive pink facade, the Primate's Palace, built in the late 18th century for the then-head of the Hungarian church, houses one of the most-visited attractions in Bratislava. The Mortlake tapestries were woven in London in the 17th century and somehow found their way to Slovakia, where they were discovered in the palace during its early 20th century restoration. Similar tapestries can be found in Liverpool and Stockholm, but Bratislava's cheerleaders take great pride in pointing out that six such examples are on display here, versus the five in England and Sweden.

North out of the Main Square, Františkánske námestie (map D6), lined with bars and restaurants, leads up to St Michael's Gate (map C6), which was previously the largest entrance to the old town. It is now the only gate remaining from the medieval fortifications and was completely reconstructed with an onion-type Baroque top. It now houses a museum of weaponry, but its most appealing exhibit is the view across the whole of the old town from its tower. By all means glance at the swords and spears if you want, but this is one of few spots in the city to give a close-up, birds-eye view and is not to be missed.

South from St Michael's Gate, Michalská and Ventúrska streets, running into one another, are something of a boundary between the restored and undeveloped areas of the old town. The streets themselves are full of character, with the huge white university library the dominant building, alongside a number of smaller Baroque residences, now most likely to house administrative offices or university faculties. The parallel Kapitulská street, however, is relatively untouched and still slightly run down. Its seemingly vacant period buildings must set developers drooling at its as-yet untapped potential.

According to tour-guides, and supported by a plaque on what is now the Austrian embassy, a 6-year-old Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart gave a recital to Maria Theresa in the Pálffy Palace (map C7) at No 19 Panská street. Some historians doubt this claim, however, likewise the speculative explanations as to why he never returned to Bratislava. One fanciful tale has it that the pre-pubescent virtuoso developed toothache while in the town and was sufficiently scarred by the rudimentary 18th century dentistry that he stayed away for the remainder of his life.

Whatever the truth about the precocious Austrian imp, Franz Liszt and Ludwig van Beethoven were confirmed visitors to Bratislava and the latter's Missa Solemnis was performed for the first time in the city's St Martin's Cathedral (map B7). Beethoven reportedly followed one of his countless supposed squeezes to the city, staying with her in what is now the Danish embassy building on Panská street. Liszt gave more than 20 concerts in Bratislava, the first of which took place on Ventúrska street. Plaques mark the spots, as ever.

In a city brimming with appealing architecture and numerous religious monuments, the undisputed centrepiece is the Gothic St Martin's Cathedral, built into the city fortifications, with cannons embedded in its walls. It is most famous, however, for hosting the coronations of 19 monarchs and royal consorts of the Austro-Hungarian empire during the Turkish occupation of Hungary. Maximillian II was the first ruler crowned here in 1563, with Maria Theresa, in 1741, the most notable among the others.

A metre-high replica of the crown of St Stephen sits atop the cathedral spire, recognising the building's status. Of the crown’s 300kg bulk, eight are of solid gold used to plate it. Every September, the Coronation Bratislava festival remembers the succession of rulers by means of a parade through the city following the path of bronze discs set into the street that indicates the route taken by the regal processions.

Construction on the building itself began in the 14th century, but the church wasn't consecrated until 1452 and even then building work was still not finished. That said, churches in Slovakia can rarely be regarded as complete until a familiar sequence of destruction and reconstruction has been observed throughout the middle ages, and St Martin's is no different. It has been ravaged by fire, lightening, earthquake and highway construction, as well as by the hands of domineering architects, eager to stamp their period motifs on the structure.

Originally the site of a Romanesque chapel, the present building has appeared as a Gothic and Baroque structure, before being re-Gothicised once again in the 19th century. Its foundations are currently undergoing restoration to compensate for the vibrations generated by the traffic passing over the nearby bridge. It's good to know where your Sk40 entrance fee is being spent.

	Although a bustling commercial capital, Bratislava offers ample opportunity for peaceful contemplation.
	Courtesy of Bratislava City

The Bratislava Castle now faces a complex restoration, which should last for about four years. The previous restoration took place in the mid-20th century.

Previously, it had been used as a base for Emperor Sigismund's anti-Hussite troops in the 15th century and served as a lavish royal seat under Maria Theresa. Then, after her death, Joseph II turned it into a Catholic seminary, before it became a military barracks.

One of its inebriated garrisoned residents is blamed for the fire that ravaged it in 1811, and then indifference took hold for more than 100 years before the communist government rescued it from neglect, eventually turning it into a city museum. The present restoration is the most costly in its history and Bratislavans hope that the many years of inaccessibility will be justified by the unveiling of the spectacular attraction it so clearly could become.

Leaving the Staré mesto

Outside of the Old Town, the attractions of Bratislava become more widely spread. To get ones bearings of the city, there are three excellent places to view the whole urban sprawl and to glimpse the full scale of the capital. The first of these is the restaurant in the UFO pod (map B10) of the aforementioned New Bridge, which offers the best views over the modern residential suburbs to the south of Bratislava, as well as in both directions along the Danube.

Another restaurant-cum-viewing platform can be found at the top of the television tower Kamzík, the final stop of the No 203 trolley-bus. Digital technology will soon render the broadcasting tower obsolete and authorities are yet to decide its long-term fate. But many Bratislavans have grown fond of the eyesore on the hill peering over the city and are campaigning for it to remain, perhaps with another utility. For the time being, a rotating restaurant near its top attracts a mostly business clientelé during the day and romantic couples and tourists at night.

	A May Day Ceremony at the Slavín Monument, where almost 7,000 Soviet soldiers are buried.
	Photo Jana Liptáková

Back on ground level, the Presidential Palace (map D4) on Hodžovo námestie, north of the Old Town, is not open to the public and required viewing only if you're looking to tick all the boxes in a spotter's guide to the city. The Slovak president is the head of state but with very limited powers, with the Prime Minister (or, rather, an uneasy coalition) responsible for the day-to-day running of the country.

His palace is grand nonetheless, defended by the kind of guards in traditional costume that usually figure in tourists' photographs. It also backs onto one of the city's most beautiful open spaces, the Grassalkovichova záhrada, a well-manicured and peaceful area of trees, grass and pathways.

Waterside walks along the banks of the Danube are a popular, and much underrated activity, particularly on the southern side, where there is less traffic and more open space. Those really hoping to get away from it all, and yet reluctant to leave the city limits, however, should find their way to the Bratislavský lesopark (Bratislava Forest Park - Koliba and Železná studienka area), which is, as the name suggests, a vast landscape of forest and park and popular for student gatherings, particularly in the summer. Keep an eye out for the frisbees and barbeque smoke and all should be well.

Finally, Bratislava Zoo, in the Karlova Ves region of the city, offers a decent respite from the bustle, despite its location beside a motorway. Originally opened in 1960, it is by no means as bleak a place as might be feared. Instead, the 152 animal species, including white tigers, bears, giraffes and the ever-amusing meerkats, enjoy sizeable enclosures and a remarkably clean environment. A new exhibition of dinosaurs among the existent animals is slightly confusing, but is an agreeable boon for the younger generation of dino-lovers.

Jewish Bratislava

	The Holocaust memorial erected in memory of Bratislava’s murdered Jewish population.
	Howard Swains

The story is all too familiar across Slovakia and much of central Europe, but Bratislava's Jewish quarter suffered further indignities under both Nazi and communist developers, who razed most of the historical buildings to build modern highways across the city. Only one street really now remains of the former Jewish quarter, although a museum of Jewish history (map B6), on Židovská street, documents the former vibrancy of the area, as well as commemorating the thousands who perished during the war atrocities. Likewise, a Holocaust memorial statue stands on the location of the former synagogue, now beside the entrance to the subway under the main road.

Bratislava, however, remains a focal point for Jewish historians, and the destination for pilgrims, as it is the final resting place of Chatam Sofer (map A8/off map), the hugely influential orthodox rabbi of German extraction, who lived and worked in what was then Pressburg for 33 years, until his death in 1839. Remarkably, Jewish leaders were able to persuade the Nazi-influenced Tiso government to allow them to preserve Sofer's grave – international pressure, a bribe, or fear of a curse being the most common explanations – and a rudimentary mausoleum was constructed over the site of Sofer's body, even as the remainder of the former cemetery was destroyed.

The original mausoleum, which looked like a bus shelter, according to one Jewish leader, kept the grave, and that of several family members and associates, protected for the best part of 50 years, before a development was completed in 2002 that displays Sofer's grave in a more dignified setting and allows visitors to worship beside it.

These days, trips to the sacral site can be arranged through the Jewish community and visitors will find an appropriately sombre yet accessible shrine. The grave site, now several metres underground, is separated from two prayer rooms on an upper level by a glass screen, although it is possible to visit the graveside, where previous pilgrims have left prayer notes and pebbles.

It's not for the casual sightseer – this is a monument of exceptional religious importance and is justly protected – but is a regular stopping point for orthodox Jewry from across the world.

Events

March: Bratislavský maratón
(Bratislava Marathon)
wwww.bratislavamarathon.com

April: Bratislava pre všetkých
(Bratislava – City for Everyone)
Various cultural events in the city www.bkis.sk

May: Musica Sacra
International festival of sacral music
www.choral-music.sk

June 16–September 20: Kultúrne leto
(Summer of culture)
Eleven independent festival projects and 16 program cycles with participation of artists from Slovakia and around the world on more than 20 places in Bratislava, www.bkis.sk

June: Junifest
National beer festival
www.junifest.sk

June: Wilsonic
Advanced, urban & electronic music
www.wilsonic.sk

June: Siege of Bratislava by Napoleon’s Troops
Reconstruction of the actual battle fought in 1809, by almost 200 soldiers dressed in period uniforms of the Austrian and French Empires (Park of Janko Král)
www.bkis.sk

July: Viva Musica
Open-air concerts of classical music and jazz
www.orfeo.sk

September: Bratislava Coronation Ceremony
Historical coronation ceremony of the Hungarian kings
www.bkis.sk

October: Bienále animácie Bratislava (Biennial of Animation Bratislava)
International festival of animated films for children
www.bab-slovakia.sk

October: Bratislavské jazzové dni (Bratislava Jazz Days) Jazz festival with local and international talent, www.bjd.sk

November: Deň otvorených pivníc (Day of Open Cellars’ Doors)
Wine cellars are open along the Small Carpathian Wine Route
www.mvc.sk

November: Bratislavské hudobné slávnosti (Bratislava Music Festival)
Festival of classical music
www.bhsfestival.sk

November–December: Christmas Days in Bratislava and Traditional Christmas Market
www.bkis.sk

December: Partyslava - New Year’s Eve Party
www.bkis.sk

Map of Bratislava

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